maimai: 2021

Chủ Nhật, 27 tháng 6, 2021

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How to Watch: Stream on Amazon Set in a similar era to Call the Midwife, Grantchester has not just a hunky lead (James Norton) as its draw, though that is certainly a major reason to tune in. Norton plays a Cambridgeshire clergyman who ends up solving murders in the bucolic village where he is a vicar. Grantchester has a uniquely high crime rate and a very hip jazz club—a combination you never knew you wanted. —E.S.

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How to Watch: Stream on Netflix Call the Midwife takes place in London in the 1950s and ’60s at the beginning of Elizabeth II’s reign and follows a group of nurse-midwives. If that sounds like a sleepy premise, it isn’t what you think. The show, now in its ninth season, is incredibly emotionally gripping, as it follows the nurses while they head into impoverished parts of the city to try to help other women. —E.S.

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Thứ Bảy, 26 tháng 6, 2021

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Having a hairstylist that I trust was helpful for me during this process. Renee Gader, Aveda’s Global Artistic Director for Textured Hair, is incredible. She really knows curls. She’s all about reframing the experience that Black women have when we go into the salon. We all know too well those visits where we put our trust in the wrong stylists, just to pay a ton of money to find out they don’t know how to do Black hair or they have this idea that every Black woman’s hair is the same.

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Roe ultimately went for a chin-length bob. “It feels so good to have been able to let go of that weight. I don’t know why I didn’t do this sooner.”But even with knowing I’d have the best of the best hairstylist doing my cut, I still had my anxieties leading up to the big day, especially the day before. I was spiraling thinking about all of the ‘last times’ with my hair: the last time I’m going to take the train with long hair, or get coffee at my favorite spot. I was nervous about my cheeks; people being able to see them more than they used to and remembering how I was made fun of for them growing up. I was having a panic attack. What helped me get out of my anxiety was talking to friends and also making a playlist, Mane Moves, filled with upbeat house and funk-inspired songs, from “Communicate” by Mick Jenkins and Ravyn Lenae to “Groovin’” by Flamingosis, to really make it a fun and enjoyable experience.

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Most recently, Sophie had been living in Athens, Greece, where she died at home on Saturday morning. “At this time respect and privacy for the family is our priority,” her management also added. “We would also ask for respect for Sophie’s fanbase, and to treat the private nature of this news with sensitivity.”

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Tributes have poured in from luminaries of the music world including Nile Rodgers, Christine and the Queens, and Sam Smith, with many from the LGBTQ+ community also sharing her significance as one of the most visible trans performers working in music over the past years. As the model and activist Munroe Bergdorf wrote on Twitter: “Our community has lost an icon, a pioneer and a visionary bright light.”

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Thứ Sáu, 25 tháng 6, 2021

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Cameron Dezen Hammon is the author of This Is My Body: A Memoir of Religious and Romantic Obsession, winner of the 2019 Nonfiction Discovery Prize from the Writers’ League of Texas.

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As a transplanted New Yorker, Houston has been good to me. It’s the most diverse city in America, and it’s affordable, if you don’t count what one local writer called the trauma tax. I left New York after 9/11, not because of any loss of love, but because I thought it might be easier to live in Houston, and in many ways it has been. But like so many in regions where the effects of climate change are becoming frightening faster than we imagined, we’re left wondering if the city’s unofficial marketing slogan—Houston. It’s Worth It.—holds up. Though climate change is coming for us all, it might be time for our family to think about finding somewhere to live where its effects are less immediate, less terrifying. My neighbor and I have promised to schedule our next glass of wine once we’ve both come down from the anxiety of last week. It might take longer than we think.

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In a year when Chloé Zhao’s Nomadland and Regina King’s One Night in Miami are favorites in the best-directing Oscar race, we’ve gathered some more of the best female-directed films of all time.

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The pioneering British-American filmmaker became the first woman ever to direct a film noir, with this tense thriller about a murderer hitchhiking through Mexico. It’s a slow burn that brims over with dread as two men (Edmond O’Brien and Frank Lovejoy) try, in vain, to escape their tormentor.

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Thứ Hai, 21 tháng 6, 2021

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It’s this underlying indictment of late-stage capitalism that first drew Pike to the project. “Maybe the real villain of the piece is the system, which is set up for people like Marla to win,” she offers. Still, what ultimately makes the film such a riot to watch is the fun that Pike seems to be having playing a “fucking lioness” once again: “If people like watching me play these characters, why should that mean I should run away from it? Why do we tell ourselves we should never revisit territory that we’ve visited before? Not every year, but it’s certainly fun to explore it. So I thought, Make a note to self: If I’m getting too earnest, look for an antiheroine every few years.” With Marla, Pike has found the perfect (and perfectly horrible) antiheroine for our times.

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It’s a weird year for movies, the strangest perhaps ever. A year in which movies have been more heard about than seen; in which they’ve gone underground, a few sent into theaters that almost no one is comfortable going to, or been delayed and then delayed again; a year of festivals canceled or turned virtual; a year of films appearing on streaming services, where they actually can be seen but where they almost certainly aren’t—because they’ve joined a vast pool of boredom-mitigating content, from The Mandalorian to reruns of Friends to Bling Empire. (Be honest, have you actually seen any of these—very good—movies: One Night in Miami? Never Really Sometimes Always? Dick Johnson Is Dead? Mank?)

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Someday soon, there will be movies and plays and crowded subway cars, but for now, I’ll stay careful and tentative. Hope is on the horizon, but this doesn’t mean hope is guaranteed.

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If we do this, it could be a summer of hugs, meals in restaurants, airplanes, and elderly relatives. Yes, I’m going to meet my niece this summer. Yes, I’ll take my mom to dinner. Yes, I’ll see my dad, and maybe even go to Europe. When my teenagers are vaccinated, then I’ll really feel ready to completely jump back into “normal” life, though I’m sure there will be an adjustment period for them and for me. I’m ridiculously excited to go to crowded places and do normal, non-pandemic activities. I’m also extremely sick of carrying around anti-bacterial wipes, which manage to somehow leak and get everything that weird anti-bacterial wet.

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Chủ Nhật, 20 tháng 6, 2021

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However, the nature of this kind of content is that it talks to thousands, if not millions, of people at once and so tends to neglect the nuanced needs of an individual’s skin. It’s what happens when specialist knowledge is condensed into bite-sized videos, flattening the complexity of skin science and making it increasingly difficult to discern fact from fiction. According to Houghton, though, skepticism surrounding skinfluencers remains low. Unlike traditional beauty influencers, skinfluencers have won our trust as industry whistleblowers who prioritize skin health with their mindful and minimalist approach to skin care, via low cost, ingredient-aware regimes.

As a result, there’s been a shift in industry marketing, too. “Where a product used to be marketed as a ‘brightening solution’, it’s probably labelled as a ‘tranexamic acid’ now,” says Willis. Of course, this type of no-frills marketing has been gaining momentum for a while, but the rise of the skinfluencer has turbocharged a demand for authenticity and transparency. As long as Yarbro and his peers remain authentic spokespersons, forever holding the beauty industry to account, they will transform our approach to skin care indefinitely.

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We’re only a few months into 2021, but our editors and contributors have been busy (and it’s been a long winter). Here: Your curated guide to the best new books of the coming months.

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If I had the ability to momentarily wipe my memory, I’d use it to reread Detransition, Baby for the first time. In Torrey Peters’ searing novelistic debut, a recently detransitioned man impregnates his cis female boss and asks his ex-girlfriend, a trans woman longing for motherhood, to help raise the baby; the plot’s uniqueness is matched by Peters’s distinctive and kinetic voice, and the two intermingle to form an unforgettable portrait of gender, humanity, and family.—Emma Specter

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The Row fall 2020 Photo: Courtesy of The Row Which pieces were your customers particularly responding to in 2020?Natalie Kingham: In general, fashion in 2020 is what makes us feel better, instead of dressing for approval from other people. In terms of categories, it was definitely denim and loungewear, which includes pajamas, robes, leggings, and Birkenstocks. And the real big growth areas were fine jewelry and homewares. It’s not really surprising. We all realized we didn’t have enough things at home to make us feel nice. I had some satin PJs but not enough of them; some robes but not enough of them; some sweatshirts but not enough of them. [As for homeware,] we’ve been spoiled by the tabletops and cutlery at nice restaurants when we were going out to eat.

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The craving for fine jewelry during lockdown…Sarah Harris [of British Vogue] said to me yesterday that a ring has become more important because when you look down, you smile—or you had something on your wrist or even your ankle, with an anklet. Fine jewelry at $1,500 has replaced the dress at $1,500.

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Thứ Sáu, 18 tháng 6, 2021

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For the past few years, the tennis world has waited for someone from the new generation of players — among the Dominic Thiem, 27, Alexander Zverev, 23, and Stefanos Tsitsipas, 22 — to break through and challenge the Big Three at the majors, but none has been able to do so.

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Throughout these difficult past weeks, Raskin, who was recently elected to his third term, said he has tried to draw strength from his son’s memory. “I am carrying the spirit and compassion of Tommy Raskin with me in my heart every day, along with the love of my family and friends and colleagues and the hopes and dreams of my constituents,” Raskin told The Nation in a recent interview. “I am fortified in this struggle against fascism.”

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A touch of whimsy is a welcome twist to a civil ceremony. No one does playful comfort better than Batsheva: The brand’s founder, Batsheva Hay, understands exactly how women want to dress right now. “Be comfortable. Wear something not too expensive, but that feels elevated,” Hay told Vogue’s fashion news and emerging platforms editor Steff Yotka. Finish off the look with high-top sneakers for added cool-girl comfort.

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At Canada’s CBC News Network, where Walker worked for the majority of her career before joining Gimlet, she lead the Missing & Murdered podcast and investigated the cases of Indigenous women such as Alberta Williams and Cleo Nicotine Semaganis. Walker makes her first foray into an American case with Stolen, but she found many parallels between it and the cases that she’s covered in Canada. “For Indigenous people on both sides of the border, there’s a lot of shared experiences,” says Walker. “We’ve survived genocide and continue to be impacted by colonization, broken treaties, and systemic racism.” Whichever story she is telling, Walker aims to tell a larger story, exploring why Indigenous women are so often targeted.

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Jelly cakes, once considered woefully retro (in the U.S., at least), are having an Instagram renaissance. But they weren’t Park’s first idea. She originally started cooking original recipes both sweet and savory, from jerky to spring rolls, before seeing a huge demand for her cakes. “I have no background in food,” she says. “I’m just a home cook. So whenever I had an idea, I would just ask someone I knew to kind of guide me, and I would just put it on Instagram and see what happened.”

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And as a product of 1990s New York, I found many of the elements of this story hauntingly familiar. Mia’s adopted son Moses Farrow entered my class at Dalton not long after I left for another school. I went to the same diners, rode the same Madison Avenue bus, shopped at the same shops. I, too, was a product of a messy public divorce, just like the Farrow children. Thank God my parents were far less famous than Woody and Mia. But pieces were written about my parents’ divorce, sides were taken, there were lawsuits and lawsuits and more lawsuits. There are no winners in cases like these, but children who go through public divorces when they have not yet entered grade school are among those who suffer the most.

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It’s important to note that I know many of the players—at least superficially. I’ve met Woody a few times. My grandparents were friendly with Mia, and I sometimes message with her on Twitter, but I don’t know her in real life. I’ve met Ronan. Woody and Mia were enormous figures in the New York I grew up in. My grandfather Howard Fast lived in the same building on 74th street as Woody.

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In 2020, our Poland is a divided country, and as a Polish woman, I have grave fears. Church and state have merged, giving birth to conflict and contradiction. A woman’s right to choose is under siege, the LGBTQ+ community is treated like second-class citizens, and sex education is being phased out.

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Poland has the strictest abortion legislation in the EU. Abortion is illegal with three exceptions [in cases of rape, incest or where there’s a threat to the mother’s life], and these exceptions are being slowly erased. This will affect not just our women, but our entire community. On 22 October, the Constitutional Court outlawed abortion in the case of severe and irreversible fetal impairment. This basically means that the state will force women to carry their pregnancies to term and give birth to children with severe deformities who may die, in extreme pain, just minutes after. The state is starting to interfere with our most personal decisions that impact our life, our destiny, our health and safety.

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With crisp air and high winds putting skin to the test, what better way to put your best face forward on Zoom? Here, the best toners for dry skin to lock in moisture all winter long.

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“Damp skin is 10 times more permeable than dry skin,” explains Austin-based aesthetician Renée Rouleau. “As long as you’re leaving it damp on the skin before immediately applying your next product, toners provide an instant boost of moisture to dehydrated cells and allow active ingredients to penetrate deeper.” In addition to helping fight the telltale signs of a cold-weather complexion, such as sallowness or flaky patches, toners can also support the skin’s natural protective barrier by delivering additional nutrients that make it less sensitive and more resistant to environmental damage, she says.

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Thứ Năm, 17 tháng 6, 2021

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Meaningful cultural exchange English-speaking artists are recognizing the success of their Spanish, Korean, French, and Chinese-speaking peers and realizing the possibilities that open up. Before, it was incumbent on non-English-speaking artists to ask (and potentially pay) for a collaboration with an American star—now we’re seeing a reversal in that process. From Fonsi and Bieber to Billie Eilish and Rosalía and J Balvin and Beyoncé, many U.K. and U.S. acts are proudly placing these singers front and center of their own releases.

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The streaming success of non-English-language music isn’t just contained to individuals, either. Two of the top five most-listened-to playlists on Spotify are ¡Viva Latino! and Baila Reggaeton, and they’re packed with artists such as Maluma, Karol G, and Rosalía, who have become a huge part of this new wave of Spanish-speaking singers. (The latter, who features on the January 2021 cover of American Vogue, won a Grammy last year for her critically and commercially lauded album El Mal Querer.) Maluma Meanwhile, Colombian star Maluma—who’s just released a visual EP called #7DJ (7 Days In Jamaica), inspired by reggae and dancehall—believes the secret is in the production. “I truly think it’s the feeling of our music and the rhythm,” he tells Vogue via email. “It’s a different vibe and feeling when you listen to our music. Everything in Spanish sounds much more romantic.” With 57 million Instagram followers, it’s clear that Maluma has global appeal—something he insists comes from sticking close to his roots. “It’s very important to stay true to who you are and not change just to fit in,” he explains. “Music is one of the elements in life that is universal—the language doesn’t matter. It’s the emotional tone to the lyrics and the beat.”

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We’re seeing this all day, every day, with the YX App. Consumers are now conditioned to transact online, and we’re seeing the adoption of digital styling and shopping skyrocket following the initial shock of the pandemic. It’s the multichannel methodology that is working: live chats, image or video sharing, high-touch customer service, and social commerce. This omni-channel approach will all contribute to increased digital penetration on the consumer end. Shoppers are savvier now: They will be looking for sophisticated digital experiences that connect with them personally and provide them a curated experience that replaces the emotional lure they once sought in brick-and-mortar stores.

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In the future, I believe brick-and-mortar stores will take on more of a showroom role, whereas the bulk of transactions will take place digitally. For that reason, retail needs to find a way to dovetail into a consumer’s daily life at every touch point, not the reverse. For that reason, I think 2021 will see a seismic shift in the relationship between consumer and retailer, and those who can layer a human touch onto an intuitive digital experience will win.

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At its core, Prada’s fall collection was a juxtaposition of the past and future, the masculine and feminine. These themes were encapsulated not just in the collection, which saw classics reimagined for a whole new post-pandemic world, but on the beauty front as well.

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Thanks to Ross and Merriman’s painstaking, era-specific styling, Lady Day’s intrepid gardenia style is being introduced to a new generation in exquisite detail. And it’s a vital part of Holiday’s multifaceted legacy. As Merriman puts it, “Her presence, her unique voice, her resilience, and even her glamorous looks gave Black people a sense of pride, hope, and a will to fight for justice.”

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Thứ Tư, 16 tháng 6, 2021

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Perhaps you’ve already spotted Moon emerging from swirling fog on the Rick Owens runway, stomping down Han Kjøbenhavn’s catwalk in skull-altering prosthetics, or surfing faux scaffolding for “the true punk” Vivienne Westwood. Moon is here, instead of on a sunny beach (or Utopia), they explain, to help make a difference. Moon became a vegan, like many, after learning that they could eat plant-based meals rather than animal byproducts to gain the necessary nutrients for a healthy life. “If we can have smartphone, why we should be still eating like in the Ice Age?” asks Moon. “Veganism means that you are treating your body, environment and innocent animals with respect and love, that’s it.” On the ground, they’ve attended Extinction Rebellion protests, waving fluorescent flags and beating drums for the global movement, bringing attention to our planet’s current state of ecological emergency.

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“Do you remember the scene from The Matrix where they could just directly download skills?” asks Michael Moon. They’re discussing Elon Musk’s Neuralink project, which ties brain function to technology. As a way to “use your lifetime more wisely” and heal the planet, it’s a concept that admittedly mesmerizes Moon. A self-described extraterrestrial, Moon is here to “take on this really difficult mission of healing the world.”

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Thứ Hai, 14 tháng 6, 2021

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Decked in a deep green Christian Dior couture gown, Taylor-Joy sported icy platinum waves that were dramatically longer, spilling to her waist with a deep side parting that caused her lengths to fall over her left eye to dramatic effect. Incidentally, Taylor-Joy channeled Veronica Lake, the Old Hollywood star who famously made the one-eye style a sensation in her breakout role in the 1940 film I Wanted Wings. To complete her look, she paired her swoopy pale waves styled by hairstylist Gregory Russell with a bold nude lip painted on by Georgie Eisdell using Dior Rouge Dior lipstick in deep #434 Promenade.

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Needless to say, Taylor-Joy’s embrace of extra-long hair comes at a serendipitous time. Whether the product of months of skipped haircuts, or the handiwork of temporary hair extensions, the final product is stunning and makes a winsome case for growing out your hair while social distancing.

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